Why Replacing Your Own Brake Pads Makes Sense

Brake pad replacement is one of the most common — and most achievable — DIY repairs a car owner can tackle. With the right tools and a methodical approach, most people can complete the job in under two hours per axle and save a significant amount compared to shop labour rates.

This guide walks you through the full process for a standard disc brake system, which is found on the front axle of virtually every modern vehicle and increasingly on the rear axle as well.

What You'll Need

  • New brake pads (matched to your vehicle's year, make, and model)
  • Jack and jack stands (never work under a car supported only by a floor jack)
  • Lug wrench or impact gun
  • C-clamp or brake piston wind-back tool
  • 10mm and 12mm sockets (sizes vary by vehicle)
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Brake grease / caliper slide pin lubricant
  • Flathead screwdriver and pliers
  • Gloves and safety glasses

Step 1: Loosen the Lug Nuts Before Jacking

With the vehicle still on the ground, break the lug nuts loose on the wheel you're working on — but don't remove them yet. This prevents the wheel from spinning when you apply torque.

Step 2: Safely Raise and Support the Vehicle

Consult your owner's manual for the correct jack points. Place jack stands under the vehicle's frame or designated lift points. Never skip this step — a falling vehicle can cause serious injury.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel free. Set it aside safely. You should now have clear access to the brake caliper and rotor.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

Locate the two caliper bolts on the back of the caliper assembly. Remove them (commonly 12mm or 14mm) and slide the caliper off the rotor. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose — use a wire hook or bungee cord to support it from the spring or suspension.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

The pads should slide or clip out of the caliper bracket. Take note of how they're oriented before removing them — you'll install the new ones the same way. Inspect the rotor surface: if you see deep grooves or score marks, the rotor may need machining or replacement.

Step 6: Compress the Caliper Piston

Before fitting thicker new pads, you need to push the caliper piston back into its bore. Place a C-clamp over the caliper body with one end on the piston and the other on the back of the caliper. Slowly tighten until the piston is fully retracted. Note: rear calipers on many vehicles require a wind-back tool, as the piston also rotates.

When compressing the piston, fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir. Check that it doesn't overflow — remove some fluid beforehand if necessary.

Step 7: Install the New Pads

Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the caliper slide pins and the metal backing plate of each pad (not the friction material). Clip or slot the new pads into position in the caliper bracket, following the same orientation as the old ones.

Step 8: Reassemble and Torque to Spec

Slide the caliper back over the new pads and rotor. Reinstall the caliper bolts and torque them to your vehicle's specification (typically 25–45 ft-lbs — check your service manual). Refit the wheel and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 9: Bed in Your New Brake Pads

New brake pads require a bedding-in period. In a safe, open area, perform 8–10 moderate stops from around 50 km/h, allowing the brakes to cool between each. This transfers a thin, even layer of pad material onto the rotor surface and maximises braking performance.

Final Safety Check

Before driving on public roads, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This seats the caliper piston against the new pads. Also check your brake fluid level and top up if needed.

If the pedal feels soft or spongy even after pumping, do not drive the vehicle — air may be present in the brake lines and the system will need bleeding.